French active ingredient manufacturer Silab has unveiled Metallomia, a detoxifying active ingredient developed specifically for menopausal skin. According to the company, the ingredient addresses a deficiency in ferritinophagy, the mechanism that ensures the controlled release of iron to meet the needs of cells, observed in skin during menopause.
The development is based on a new modeling study of menopausal skin, in which Silab says it demonstrated the deficiency of this key process. The company explains that insufficient ferritinophagy during menopause reduces bioavailable iron, which in turn drives premature skin aging, a phenomenon it terms metallo-aging.
Iron release brought back under control
UV radiation is described as amplifying the problem. Silab states that UV exposure favors the degradation of iron/ferritin complexes, leading to a massive and uncontrolled release of iron and causing significant oxidative stress. Metallomia is claimed to act on two fronts: relaunching ferritinophagy so that iron is supplied to the skin and the main epidermal functions are reactivated, and reducing iron/ferritin complexes to limit oxidative stress when skin is exposed to UV.
Observations in volunteers
According to Silab, this targeted mechanism significantly reduces metallo-aging. In Caucasian volunteers, skin was reported revitalized from 14 days, with the skin barrier reinforced and the complexion unified and radiant. In Asian volunteers, pigment spots were significantly reduced after 28 days. When applied by Caucasian volunteers before UV exposure, the ingredient was also reported to prevent lipid peroxidation, with redness limited in the hours following exposure.
Sourcing and formulation
For Metallomia, Silab focused on the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages, and has set up a traced supply chain with French partners. The supply has been validated against criteria described in the European Pharmacopoeia and authenticated by DNA barcoding. To make use of the roots' mucilage content, the company developed a specific enzyme engineering process to extract polyuronides.
Metallomia is a patented active ingredient recommended for all care products intended for menopausal skin at a dose of 0.5% to 2%. It is supplied as an aqueous solution, which Silab describes as easy to formulate. The ingredient complies with biodiversity regulations and has a natural origin content of 100% under ISO 16128; it also complies with international cosmetics regulations covering Europe, the USA, China, Japan and other markets.